July Stuff: Keeping it CaniCOOL, Ice cream, Cerises
Your monthly quick hits from Franchement: July edition.
I think the most important thing I learned in July was that the meat and dairy aisles of grocery stores are not the coolest places to stand during a canicule. The coolest coolness I felt was in fact inside of Printemps, particularly the one near Nation that is usually quite empty. In case of a heat-related medical emergency, a Printemps might be a better solution than a hospital.
Anyway, between the heat, fires, France’s performance in the World Cup, and my mounting disillusionment with our elected officials, July, particularly the quatorze, felt just a bit meh. How could it not, with the adventures of August just on the horizon? I promise I’ll try to get my usual 3-4 posts out even while I’m visiting family. I’m stocking up the drafts folder as we speak, but we'll see what happens. It’s called vacances for a reason. Let’s get to it.
Around Paris





Realized melon and shaved fennel go wonderfully together at Donna.
Enjoyed dim sum and mapo tofu at SENSation. Would go back again just for the siu mai.
Sipped orange wine and spritz on the hidden, off-the-street terrace at Griffon in the Marais. Shady and spacious, if you can cop a table. This spot is also a nice cozy hideaway in the winter if you want to sit and sip something but need some warmth.
Had a lovely friend date at the new Folderol location on Faidherbe, with natural wine, mint and olive oil ice cream for dinner. I would gate keep this location if the word wasn’t already out/word wouldn’t inevitably be out on an ice cream game this strong. Cute bathroom, too.
We frequently celebrate special occasions or avoid the heat via ice cream at Raimo in the 12th, a neighborhood institution. It’s not new—in fact it’s been there for decades. It’s not newfangled like so many other ice cream joints popping up in Paris. But it has a fun ice cream shop vibe, cute presentation, and actual banana splits. Staff capability levels depends on which angsty teen is assigned to your table.
Around Substack
More than cherries: I had never heard the phrase “les temps des cerises” until I read this lovely post from Susanna Schrobsdorff. She illuminated a phrase for a feeling I’ve been having more often as of late, and also clued me in to a restaurant of the same name that I’ve walked by a thousand times on my way to French class, and thus far, neglected to visit.
What’s Open in August?: If you’ll be in Paris in August, this extensive list of what is open in August in Paris from Paris By Mouth is going to be essential to your stay. I usually just roam around and find out that hard way what is open or closed, which is depressing. Keep in mind that not all businesses update their info on Google, so don’t trust what you see online.
Gratuitous vacation planning: Speaking of thinking ahead, if you emjoy getting pumped up for vacation time, you have to read this post by my friend Maddy Odom where she explains her “borderline maniacal but chill” travel planning process, which feels like a soothing balm if you enjoy vacation planning. I used to be like her, then I slowly began to give up and just show up to places. Reading about her process inspired me to try again. Thank you, Maddy.
Around Franchement
CaniCOOL: I shared unserious advice for improving your comfort during the next canicule. The bucket and meat aisle were, in fact, sincere recommendations.
Me on writing: Not on Franchement, but adjacent, I was featured on the How I Make Money Writing Substack, talking about the writing/ghostwriting/advising/coaching combo pack career that I’ve cobbled together.







The Printemps tip is priceless
Well I’m taking a break too Shelby. I do this regularly. I find it important for health, relationships and critical for creativity.
For example I work for two months at least to take two weeks off. Not only because I feel an obligation to paid subscribers but that I’ve been at this for 16+ years and that’s how I roll and casual readers to mighty supporters know this of me.
But if without notice you need a break those who appreciate your work would say. Take. It Take it now. Please.
Love your work.
Judy